2.1 Hair preparation

Hair preparation is getting the client's hair ready for cutting by undoing any existing style and combing the hair free of tangles. Prepared hair lies in its natural fall, can be sectioned cleanly and shows its true length and texture, so the stylist can cut accurately and safely. Rushed or rough preparation causes breakage, pain and an uneven cut. Example: a client arrives with cornrows and wants a short tapered cut, so the stylist first undoes the cornrows, then detangles and combs the hair before picking up the clippers.

Undoing

Undoing is removing any existing style from the hair before cutting, such as braids, cornrows, twists, weaves, pins, clips or bands. It lets the stylist see the real length, density and condition of the hair and prevents tools catching on extensions or thread. Undoing is done gently from the ends towards the roots, and shed hair that has collected in the style is combed out. Example: a client with box braids wants a trim, so the stylist undoes each braid carefully, separating the extension hair from the natural hair before shampooing.

• Removing accessories: Take out pins, clips, bands and beads so they do not catch on the comb or clippers.
• Undoing braids and twists: Work from the ends upwards, using the tail of a comb to loosen each section.
• Removing extensions and weaves: Cut thread carefully away from the natural hair and lift out added hair.
• Loosening product build-up: Soften gel or dried product with water or conditioner rather than pulling.
• Removing shed hair: Gently pull out loose shed hair trapped in the style, which is normal after hair has been braided for some weeks.
• Checking the scalp: Look for tenderness, flaking or sores once the style is out.

Procedure for undoing

1. Drape the client: protect the client's clothes before starting.
2. Remove accessories: take out all pins, clips, bands and beads.
3. Section the hair: work in small sections so no strands are missed.
4. Loosen from the ends: undo each braid, twist or cornrow from the ends towards the roots with the tail of a comb.
5. Remove added hair or thread: lift out extensions and cut thread away from the natural hair.
6. Soften tangles: apply water or a little conditioner to knotted areas.
7. Remove shed hair: finger-comb each section to release trapped shed hair.
8. Dispose of waste: put removed extension hair, thread and shed hair in the waste bin.

Combing

Combing is passing a comb through the hair to remove tangles, align the strands and section the hair for cutting. Detangling starts with a wide-tooth comb at the ends and works up to the roots, before a finer cutting comb is used to part and hold sections. Combing in the direction of natural growth shows how the hair falls, so the cut suits the client's growth patterns. Example: after shampooing a client's thick curly hair, the stylist detangles with a wide-tooth comb from the ends upwards, then uses a cutting comb to make clean sections for a layered cut.

• Detangling: Use a wide-tooth comb, starting at the ends and moving up to the roots in small sections.
• Aligning the hair: Comb the hair smooth so strands lie in the same direction for an even cut.
• Sectioning: Use the tail of a comb to divide the hair into clean sections and secure them with clips.
• Following growth patterns: Comb with the natural fall to find cowlicks, crowns and the nape line.
• Wet or dry combing: Comb wet hair gently, as it stretches and breaks more easily; curly hair is often combed and cut dry to judge its shrinkage.
• Choosing the comb: Use wide-tooth combs for detangling and fine-tooth or cutting combs for precision.

Procedure for combing

1. Prepare the hair: dampen with a spray bottle or apply a little conditioner if the hair is tangled.
2. Section the hair: divide the hair into four or more workable sections and clip them.
3. Detangle from the ends: hold each section and comb the ends with a wide-tooth comb.
4. Work upwards: move gradually towards the roots until the comb passes through smoothly.
5. Comb to the natural fall: comb the hair in its growth direction to see how it lies.
6. Make cutting sections: use the cutting comb's tail to part neat sections ready for the cut.